How to: Make Bias Binding

I recently had the need to make bias binding and I was really surprised that I could not find a tutorial geared towards quilters that actually made sense to me. I realized I couldn’t be the only one who had a hard time finding something without frustration and decided I’d make a tutorial the next time I made bias binding.

Start with your yardage laid out like this. It would probably be wise to press it first. If your top line of your fabric isn’t straight, make sure it is. 🙂

Fold the selvage up to the top line of the fabric.

Fold again, but bringing the top down following the diagonal line. This is your bias and where you will cut. Continue folding along this same line until your fabric is a small enough packet you can cut it.

Turn your fabric so you can use the markings on your cutting mat.

Cut off the far right edge to make it straight.

Now you can cut your binding at whatever width you desire. I use 2-1/4″. When you cut bias binding, you will end up with 2 strips from each cut.

If you are attaching it to a scalloped or curved edge quilt, I highly recommend doing a stay stitch around the edge of the quilt before you trim it and before you attach the binding. This helps keep the bias edges of the quilt from stretching too much.

How to: Make Frankenbatting


I couldn’t resist. So what is frankenbatting? I heard this terminology from Julie Schloemer on Instagram and it made me laugh so hard I could never call it anything else. Frankenbatting is essentially smaller pieces of batting sewn together to make a useable piece. I have used frankenbatting in several quilts. It take some time, but if you get sick of throwing away quilt trimmings, this is the use for you! There are a few ways to make this, but here’s my favorite:

  1. Start by gathering your pieces of batting. I only save and therefore use the largest trimming left over from (generally) the bottom of the quilt.
  2. Trim down the largest edges so they are straight. This is SUPER important to make sure your frankenbatting doesn’t get wonky and bumpy later. It does not matter much if your batting pieces are the same length (or width). Just work with what you have and build it up to be big enough for your current quilt needs.
  3. Sew 2 pieces together using a zig zag stitch. You do not want to overlap the batting. Just butt the pieces up next to each other and sew. 
  4. When you’re done, here’s what each seam will look like:
  5. Keep following this process until you have built up enough batting for project.

I have never had any issues with any quilts in which I have used frankenbatting. You cannot tell once it’s quilted, and even before, that there are any seams in the batting. It’s a great way to use up something that otherwise would be trash and save yourself a few bucks. Have you ever used one of the methods to make frankenbatting? What’s your preferred way?

Wonderful Things Blog Tour: Diaper Pouch



Hello dear friends! I am so excited to be part of the Wonderful Things blog tour, showcasing Bonnie Christine, of Going Home to Roost, beautiful line for Art Gallery Fabrics. I loooooove the colors and the airy feel of this line so much. When I started thinking of ideas for my blog post, I kept thinking about how one of the most wonderful things in my life is my family. I have 2 young boys (ages 6 and 2) that keep me on my toes all day long and make life so much fun. I knew that I wanted to make a diaper pouch for my purse that I am proud to carry around as my post for the blog tour. Here’s a not-so-fun-fact from my past life: I used to carry around our diapers and wipes in a ziploc bag.  So much of the baby industry is just that, baby, and I never could find a diaper pouch I was happy with. I am very pleased with how my pouches turned out. They feel sophisticated and I doubt anyone looking into my purse would expect there to be 3 diapers, a Huggies wipes container, a tube of diaper cream, and a changing mat in my beautiful pouch. I have written up a tutorial for anyone else who might want a sophisticated diaper pouch in their purse, too.

Here’s what you’ll need to make 2 pouches:

4 Fat Quarters

1 yard of Pellon SF 101 fusible interfacing

(2) 12″ zippers

From this you’ll cut FOR EACH POUCH:

(2) 9″ x 12″ lining panels

(2) 8-3/4″ x 11-3/4″ SF 101

(2) 5-1/2″ x 12″ main outer

(2) 4″ x 12″ accent outer

(1) 2-1/2″ x 4″ for zipper tabs (these are optional, but a surprisingly easy way to up the sophistication level)

(1) 12″ zipper


Begin by making the outer panel by sewing together (1) 5-1/2″ x 12″ main outer and (1) 4″ x 12″ accent outer. Repeat for the second side. Follow the manufacturer instructions and fuse the SF 101 to the wrong side of each panel.

Next, it’s time to make the zipper tabs. Grab your 2-1/2″ x 4″ zipper tab fabric and press it in half lengthwise, with the wrong sides together. (This is “hot dog style” if that feels a little more familiar to you. 🙂 Next, fold in each side to the newly pressed center line.

Cut this in half and make 2 pieces that are still folded and ~2″. Next up, you’ll need to trim your zipper down to be 11″ long. Make sure you don’t cut off the actual zipper pull and don’t use your fabric scissors. Ask me how I know about both of these things……. Place one end of the zipper all the way into the fold of the zipper tab and attach it to the zipper. (I must have switched pouches as I was making this bag…. Sorry for the change in fabric).

Trim the excess off of the zipper tab.

Repeat for side 2.

Now it’s time to install the zipper onto your panels. If you haven’t installed a zipper before, please don’t be afraid. It is only a matter of taking one extra step and basting it in place that helps the process SO much. As you install the zipper, here’s how the zipper sandwich should be:

Outside panel right side UP

Zipper right side DOWN (the zipper pull will be touching the outside panel)

Lining right side DOWN

I usually leave the lining off until I have basted the outside panel and zipper together with a stitch length of 4 on my Juki. Center the zipper on the panel (you could make a mark if that is helpful to line up centers) and baste. Once it’s been basted, add the lining right side DOWN. Flip the lining over so it looks like this:

Then carefully press the outer panel away from the zipper (don’t worry about the lining being pressed just yet). Topstitch just the outer panel and the zipper. It should look like the photo below. Your next zipper sandwich will be as follows:

Lining right side UP

Unit 1 Right side UP (Just like in the photo)

The other outside panel face DOWN

Follow a similar procedure as you did with side 1 of the zipper and baste the bottom layer (this time it’s the lining) and the zipper, then attach the outer panel face down. Press the outer panel away from the zipper, topstitch as you did before, and you should have a unit that looks like this:

Next we will open the zipper at least half way, then pin the outside panels right side together and the lining right side together. Make sure to have a 3-4″ opening on the bottom of the lining so you can flip the bag right side out. I don’t know why, but I didn’t take any photos of this step. Sew it together with a 3/8″ seam and make sure you do NOT sew over the zipper tabs.

Before you flip it right side out, we need to box the corners. Grab a corner in your hands and gently flail the fabric out to make it look like the photo below. You want your seams to nest. Measure 2″ down from the corner and draw a line. This is your sewing line. Sew and then trim off the excess, leaving behind about 1/2″ of seam allowance.

Repeat this process for each of the 4 corners. Flip it right side out and stitch the opening closed.

You should be left with a beautiful bag! This has become my new go-to for baby showers and gifts as it is something I really appreciate having in my purse and I hope other moms will as well!

Be sure to check out the other bloggers on the blog tour and their Wonderful Things projects that they’ve been sharing for the past few weeks. In case you missed it, Ashley Cowan posted yesterday and be sure to check out Elise Baek tomorrow!

A big thanks to Bonnie for trusting me to make something beautiful with her gorgeous fabrics.